Compost v. mulch

This is a quick post, to clear up some terms and perhaps some misconceptions.

Here's the definition of compost: Decayed organic material used as a plant fertilizer.

Here's the definition of mulch: A material (such as decaying leaves, bark, or compost) spread around or over a plant to enrich or insulate the soil. 

Many things can be used as a mulch, as mentioned in the definition. 

There can be synthetic mulches like permeable fabrics, gravel, recycled class or shredded plastic. None of these are allowed in our community garden. We allowed permeable fabric last year, but we're still digging out pieces of it from the soil this year, so we nixed its use.

Of the organic mulch options, we allow straw (not hay, which has seeds), newspaper, cardboard, cardboard paper, general compost, cocoa nut mulch, cotton burr compost, aged manure, leaf mold, shredded leaves, grass clippings, and mushroom compost, among others. 

There are two organic mulch options that we do not allow in the community garden: wood chips and shredded hardwood. These are probably the most recognized types of mulch, because they're very popular in landscaped areas. These are not good options in a vegetable garden for two reasons: they decompose slowly, and they suck nitrogen from the soil while decomposing. Most veg need whatever nitrogen is in the soil, so tying it up with wood chips is going at cross-purposes.

I think some confusion came into the garden because I -- and other gardeners -- tend to use the terms "mulch" and "compost" interchangeably. I apologize! 

Usually when I talk about compost, I'm referring to compost as a soil amendment -- something that will add nutrients to the soil. Usually when I talk about mulch, I'm referring to the allowed organic mulch options above -- to blanket bare soil, conserve water, and suppress weeds. But really, I'm talking about two different purposes for the same materials. The leafmold that you can mix into your soil to improve its structure and add quick nutrients can also be used as a thick layer on top of your soil to conserve water and suppress weeds.

Ok, so this wasn't so quick. But I hope it made sense!

The dreaded cucumber beetle arrives (dum dum dummmmmmm)

Here it is:

Here's what it can do:

There is no avoiding the cucumber beetle. It overwinters in the soil, it has a broad travel range, and it affects more than just cucumbers (add squash, melons, pumpkins and gourds to the list).

So is there any good news? First, if you can get your cuke/squash/melon/pumpkin/gourd plant to a healthy size, then it can withstand having up to 50% of its leaves demolished by this beetle before the plant will call it a day. Second, there are organic ways of handling the problem.

First, try row covers. Row covers are made of special fabric which allows in sun and rain but keeps out pests. Using row covers for several weeks will give your plants time to grow and strengthen. Once the cuke starts to flower, however, you need to remove the row cover so the plant can get pollinated. 

The row cover below is suspended over the plants on top of thin metal hoops. You can also drape row covers gently over your plants without hoops, securing the edges to the ground with rocks or garden staples.

Second, mulching (using an organic material as a blanket on the soil) can deter cucumber beetles from laying their eggs at the stems of your cukes. The baby beetles that come from these eggs cause the damage shown in the middle damage picture -- eating the plant roots.

Third, delay planting the cuke family. Cucumber beetles typically emerge in late May, which is usually just after we've planted our cuke family veg. Delaying planting can allow your veg to miss the first, and heaviest, wave of beetles. The problem here, though, is that you may not have enough time to get a good crop by the end of the season -- check your cuke seeds and choose a quick harvest time.

Fourth, kaolin clay is both organic and a protective film against cucumber beetles. Mixed with water, kaolin clay forms a sticky residue on the leaves, and apparently this causes "excessive grooming" for the beetles, which then have little time to chew up your plants. Kaolin clay washes off after a heavy rain, so it needs to be reapplied both every 2 weeks and/or after a heavy rain. At harvest time, kaolin clay will wash off with a little effort and is not apparently toxic for people.

Fifth, plant radishes and onions in and around your cuke. Radishes germinate really quickly, and they repel cucumber beetles, so even if you don't like to eat radishes, try tossing a bunch of seeds around your cuke (and other affected veg) plants. Onions seem to repel most insects, so it wouldn't hurt to throw them in the mix.

Sixth, sticky traps of yellow tape are a pretty effective control. You can purchase these at a nursery or make your own with yellow plastic cups and special glue for this purpose ("Stickum" or "Tangle-Trap"). 

Seventh, a mix of neem oil and karanja oil (both organic) have been shown to be effective sprays against cucumber beetles. I haven't found a source of this mix, though.

Eighth, pyrethrum is an extract from chrysanthemums, and it is toxic to cucumber beetles. There are two problems with it, though -- it's toxic to just about every bug as well (including beneficial insects), and it's easier to find the longer-lasting synthetic form (pyrethin) than the organic form (pyrethrum). The synthetic form is not allowed in our garden.

Lemon Thyme Cookies

Ingredients:
 - 1 cup soft butter or margarine
 - 1 - 1/2 cups sugar
 - 2 eggs
 - 2 - 1/2 cups unbleached flour
 - 1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
 - 1/4 teaspoon salt
 - 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
 - 3 tablespoons dried lemon thyme or french tarragon

Directions:
Sift together flour, cream of tartar, baking soda and salt. Cream butter with sugar; add eggs and mix well. Work in flour mixture until well blended; stir in Lemon Thyme or French Tarragon. Chill overnight. Roll into balls the size of small walnuts. Bake on greased cookie sheet about 10 minutes at 375 degrees.

These will melt in your mouth!!!

Recipe from Woodland Herb Farm, Northport, Michigan.

How nutritious is our food?

Click here for an interesting article from the NY Times about how we've moved away from a broad nutritious food supply. Makes me feel lucky that we have space with great soil for gardening, and that nurseries, big box garden centers and online sellers have been steadily increasing the variety of seeds and seedlings offered.

Side note: I am a dandelion lover. Not that I eat them myself, but we have guinea pigs at home, and dandelions (untreated by any pesticide or herbicide) are their favorite treat. Plus, dandelions are usually the earliest flowers to bloom, which brings pollinators to the area, and dandelions have absurdly long roots. These roots grab nutrients from deep soil, so if you let them grow big, then compost them, you can add nutrients back to the top of the soil.

WFCG T-Shirt Orders

We thought it would be fun to offer a WF community garden t-shirt this year. If you're interested in a shirt -- or two or three, for yourself or family members and garden friends -- click here and start the online form by clicking on the CHOOSE YOUR SIZE button. If you want a women's style shirt, please note this in the comment box when ordering. The women's style is more shaped (see second set of pictures below). All order and payments are due by 5pm on June 17. 

• Product: Gildan Ultra Cotton T-shirt
• Sizes: Men's Style YXS-4XL, Women's Style XS-3XL (no youth Women's t-shirt)
• Price: $15 for youth, $18 for adult

Questions?

Contact your group organizer:
Jen Roberts - jennifer.roberts@glenviewparks.org

How Do I Pay?

Please drop off a check or cash in the full amount by June 17th at 5pm. Make your check payable to Glenview Park District.

How Will I Get My Items?

The order will be sent after June 17th and you will be notified when the t-shirts are available for pick-up.